1. Assam Laksa Petaling Street

Photo: Jessica Chan 

For more than 50 years, Auntie, as she prefers to be called, prepares her assam laksa and curry broth in the wee hours of the morning. In huge steel pots over a roaring charcoal fire, customers are only allowed to savour her flavoursome creations from late afternoon onwards (and while stocks last).

The tangy Assam Laksa (RM6.50/small; RM7.00/large) is balanced by a fiery spice and the lingering aroma of lemongrass, and comes with a palm-sized chunk of flaky mackerel.

Remember to stir in a spoonful of fermented shrimp paste for an extra oomph of umami. For fans of the Curry Mee (RM6.50/small; RM7.00/large), auntie ups the ante with an ambrosial curry gravy that’s overflowing with pig sin, homemade char siew and tofu puffs.

Can’t take the spice? There’s homemade barley and grass jelly drinks to cool you down between bites.

Address: 63, Jalan Petaling, City Centre, 50000 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Mondays to Saturdays | 3.45PM - 9.30PM

2. Fung Wong Biscuit

Photo: Jessica Chan 

The storefront may be quaint (and hidden behind a row of shops), but the Cantonese-style bakes are anything but.

A great spot to get acquainted with oft-forgotten, old-school pastries, their display counter showcases perennial favourites of Wife Biscuits (RM2.50) with winter melon paste to the endearing Crispy Roasted Piggy Buns with Roasted Pork (RM2.60), as well as the rare Mo Mo So Puff (RM2.10).

You’ll make easy work of the latter. Its wafer-like buttery shell and milk cream filling is an absolute dream with local kopi. If you’re looking to bring home the Fung Wong Biscuit experience, they have got a range of readily boxed pastries.

Go for their famed Be-Teh-So (RM13.80/10 pieces) of biscuits with wheat molasses and fried onion paste.

Address: 21, Jalan Hang Lekir, City Centre, 50000 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Tel: +60 3 2072 8888

Daily | 9AM - 10PM

3. Uncle’s Charcoal Claypot Chicken Rice

Photo: Jessica Chan 

Good luck securing a seat at this hotspot, where the claypot chicken rice (colloquially known as bo zai fan) is singularly satisfying. The store, if you can call it one, is merely a pushcart and tables haphazardly scattered across an empty plot before Double M Hotel in Brickfields.

A fearless uncle works four charcoal clay pots with steely focus, unperturbed by the blazing flames.

The seemingly simple combination of rice grains, hua diao wine, dark soy sauce chicken, slices of Chinese sausage and - most important - salted fish are expertly broiled (takes 15 minutes) to reveal a smoky and umami-laden claypot rice; a skill that uncle spent over 30 years perfecting. 

Address: 21A, Jalan Padang Belia, Brickfields, 50470 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

(Outside Double M Hotel, Brickfields, Kuala Lumpur)

4. Nasi Lemak Panas

Photo: Jessica Chan 

For a wholly local experience, this is the food court. Come sundown, the space is immediately flooded with locals digging into a smorgasbord of Malaysian favourites.

But the highlight is always the fiery battle between Red and Blue - the two biggest nasi lemak stores. Order from both and pick you favourite coconut-infused rice with sambal and egg, while enjoying what the rest of the food court has to offer.

Get in on the tahu bakar, a local speciality of crisp tofu pockets slathered with shrimp paste and stuffed with beansprouts, chillies and dark palm sugar, as well as multiple variations of otah-otah.

Seafood lovers can go look out for BBQ Kerang, chewy blood cockles grilled with lemongrass. 

Address: Medan Selera 223, Jalan 51a/223, Seksyen 51a, 46100 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia

Daily | 6PM - 2AM

5. Restoran Ahwa Hokkien Mee

Photo: Jessica Chan 

Words can barely encapsulate the delectable marriage of flat yellow noodles with ample wok hei, caramelised black soy sauce and, perhaps, way-too-much crunchy pork lard in this Kuala Lumpur-style Hokkien Mee (RM16/2 person portion).

A little wait is involved when dining at Restoran Ahwa as the open-kitchen has only two woks - one helmed by the father, and the other by the son.

Tip: Check the other equally impressive stalls in the coffeeshop, namely the Penang Lor Bak (five spice meat and prawn roll) (price varies). 

Address: No. 66, Jalan 14/48, Seksyen 14, 46100 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia

Tel: +60 12 212 0623

Daily | 5PM - 1AM